Once you learn how to start scroll sawing, with a little bit of practice, you can learn to make beautiful, pieces of art to sell, use for gifts, or maybe even to keep for yourself. In this article, I’d like to share some of the tips and tricks that I have learned since starting the scroll sawing hobby a few years ago.

Before I get to the 11 steps I use for every scroll saw project, I want to share some of the tools and other products that will help make the experience even better like it has for me. I am learning more about this hobby every single day and my goal is to help other new scrollers learn how to start scrollsawing by sharing what I have learned along the way.

Choosing a Scroll Saw

There are many scroll saws out there to choose from ranging in price from just over $100.00 like mine to over $1,500.00 or more.

Click here for a list of scroll saw brands and models including features and specifications.

When I started, I wasn’t sure how to even use a scroll saw so I went with a very inexpensive model. I bought the Craftsman 16-inch. It has been a very good tool for me. At the time it was on sale for $99.00. I still use it and it runs like new after 7 years.

This article will not be going over the different scroll saws available. This also will assume that you already have a scroll saw and you are now learning to use it.

For a list of scroll saws available including the features and technical specs, visit my page https://scrollsawnewb.com/scroll-saws/

What Items Do I Need to Start Scroll Sawing?

Assuming you already have a scroll saw, below is a list of some of the other items that will be helpful to you as you learn how to start scroll sawing and will help make your scroll sawing experience much more enjoyable.

If you have not yet purchased a scroll saw, check out our page “What does it cost to start scroll sawing?” for information.

Magnifying Lamp

A light attached to the table is a helpful item that will make it easier to see the project. With better illumination, you will reduce the risk of mistakes in your scroll saw projects. Some scroll saws come with a light, however, some do not.

My scroll saw did not have a light included so I bought one for around $40.00. It is a fluorescent light with a magnifying glass built into it. This is very helpful, particularly when cutting very small internal cuts. These are available at many retailers such as Harbor Freight, Lowes, Home Depot, Amazon, etc..

One thing to keep in mind when using a magnifying lamp is that it does get very dusty. My favorite way to keep it clean is to have a Swiffer sweeper handy. I use a single Swiffer for about a week or two, so it’s not too expensive. I have also discovered that it should be the Swiffer brand. Other brands that I have tried seem to leave an oily residue and make a huge mess on the glass.

Foot Pedal

I would recommend that you get a “momentary power footswitch.” This is a foot pedal that you put on the floor and use like a gas pedal for hands-free operation of the scroll saw so you don’t have to use the switch. These are available at Amazon, Walmart, and other retailers.

After a while, you get used to it, just like driving a car. It is so handy that I wouldn’t want to use a scroll saw without one. You can find one for less than $50.00

Vacuum / Shop Vac

Dust control is an issue that you will want to be aware of.  Most scroll saws have a dust port to attach a shop vac to. I usually don’t worry too much about it other than every few minutes to clean up the dust to keep it from getting out of control. You should wear a dust mask as well, especially if you use some exotic wood.

Drill Press /Drill

You will need to have a drill press or a hand drill to make the holes for the internal cuts. An internal cut or piercing cut is one that you cannot get to from the side of the project; therefore you need to drill an entry hole for the scroll saw blade.

When I started, I didn’t have a drill press, so I used my hand drill. I found that while it is possible to use a hand drill, I broke a lot of drill bits because it was very difficult to keep the bit straight and the bits are very small and brittle.

Shortly after I got my scroll saw I bought a little 8-inch drill press from Harbor Freight for around $50.00 with a 20% coupon. While this is very usable and I still use it, I have had a few issues with it such as it being very underpowered, and falling apart. I shouldn’t complain too much though, because it was very cheap and it is now 7 years old; however, I would probably try to get a better model for the next drill press.

If you are looking for a drill press, a few excellent websites to learn about drills and accessories are:
https://drillly.com
https://www.bestdrillpressguide.com
https://bestdrillpresscompared.com

Drill Bits

Most big box stores have drill bits, but rarely do they have any bits smaller than 1/16^th inch. For some scroll saw projects, you may need to drill a hole that is much smaller than 1/16^th inch. These projects will require you to use mini drill bits.

For the mini/micro drill bits, the higher the number, the smaller the diameter. There are many mini drill bit sizes; however, the sizes that I use range from #72 (.0250 inch.) to #54 (.0550 inch). For instance, I use mostly a #3 reverse tooth type blade. This requires a hole drilled using a #64 drill bit. Most scroll saw supply websites will have a chart to help match the blade to the size of the entry hole it requires.

I buy the mini bits by the dozen and they usually cost around $8.00 per dozen. They do break rather easily so I would start by getting at least a dozen each of #67, #64, and #61 and then you can expand to other sizes if you need to go smaller or larger.

Rich Hutcheson has a great blade / drill bit size chart on his website for the most common blades.

Patterns

There are thousands of patterns available for free on the internet and from other sources. There are also numerous patterns available for sale from many designers. Patterns can range from very simple to very complex. You can search for “free scroll saw patterns” to find something that you wish to try.

My favorite pattern maker is Steve Good. He alone has a large collection of patterns that he offers for free. Steve has several books, and YouTube videos, and he also makes a DVD of all the patterns that he creates every year.

I go into a little more detailed information regarding scroll saw patterns and where to find them here.

Spray Adhesive

You will need to apply spray adhesive to secure the pattern to the wood. I usually print out a pattern on regular paper and then spray the back of the paper, wait a few seconds, and then apply the paper onto the stock. There are several brands; however, I use 3M Super 77 Multipurpose Spray Adhesive and it is usually available at most big box stores such as Walmart, Home Depot, Lowes, and Amazon.

Packing Tape

Packing tape is used to lubricate the blade, keeping it cooler and prolonging the life of the blade. It also keeps the wood from burning. This is especially true for woods like Cherry and Maple. I apply spray adhesive to the pattern. Then attach the pattern to the stock. I then cover the pattern with a layer of packing tape. Finally, I drill any holes needed for the internal cuts of my project.

Sandpaper

As with any woodworking project you will need to sand it. It has been said that woodworking is 5% preparation, 5% execution, and 90% sanding.

That statement may be an exaggeration however, you will need to do some sanding. A good reverse tooth type blade such as an Olsen, Pegas, or Flying Dutchman will cut down on sanding a lot. Learning to follow the lines and not make sudden adjustments if you do happen to wander off the line will help eliminate some sanding as well.

I use sandpaper starting at 80 grit and work my way down to 320 grit before starting the project. Then I usually just touch it up as needed after the project is complete.

Printer

You will need a printer to print out a pattern. I have used both inkjet and laser printers.

Wood / Stock

Wood or Stock is the most important item that you will need for a project besides the scroll saw itself. There are various species of wood or stock that you can use for scrolling.

Of the many places to purchase stock, first on the list is the big box stores. In my area, they usually have Oak, Cedar, Pine, and Poplar in ¾”, ½”, and ¼” thicknesses. Baltic Birch plywood is a popular choice as well.

There are also places where you can order stock online and get more hard-to-find species of wood such as Cherry, Walnut, Mahogany, and even some exotic species such as Zebrawood, Bubinga, and Purpleheart, to name just a few.

You can even get wood from Amazon like butternut, cherry, maple, oak, walnut, and other species like Brazilian cherry.

Another source, where I get most of my stock from, is a local sawmill. The choice of species may be limited if you choose this option. In my area, I can get Cherry, Oak, Pine, and Walnut, and I have even picked up some Sassafras and Hickory wood.

To find a local sawmill in your area, you can look on Craigslist, or Facebook, or search online for sawmills. Your local phone directory may have some local sawmills listed as well.

Blades

Scroll saw blades are a subject that books could be written on and are very difficult to cover in just a few paragraphs. Honestly, it was very confusing to me when I first started scroll sawing but as I read more information and tried different blades, it became much easier to understand. There are two types of scroll saw blades: pin end and plain end.

I go into a little more detailed information regarding the different types of scroll saw blades and where you can find them here.

Pin End

Pin end blades have a pin built into both ends of the blade that secures it to the blade holder. Since it has a pin, it is larger; therefore it will not be as desirable or even possible for smaller holes. I would not recommend that you use pin-end blades unless there is some reason that it is necessary to do so.

Plain End

Since the plain end blade does not have the pins on the blade to hold it onto the blade holder, it can be used for finer details and smaller holes. Most modern scroll saws only accept plain end blades so this is what we will focus on. I never use pin-end blades.

There are several types of plain end blades such as skip tooth, double skip, spiral, reverse skip tooth, metal cutting, diamond blades, etc.

Everyone has their favorite and it may take a while to figure out which blades suit you best. Keep in mind that different projects may require different blade types.

Over the years I have purchased several different sizes and types from different manufacturers. I have found that I use mostly Pegas’ #3 and #5 modified geometry blades as well as Olson’s Mach Series reverse tooth #3 and #5 blades. These would be the blades that I would recommend to try first.

Sometimes, albeit rarely, I need to use a spiral blade. When I do it is the Olson #4 flat-end spiral blades for these specific cuts.

Click here for a list of Scroll Saw Blade Manufacturers and Retailers

Get Scroll Saw Blades by the Dozen or Gross

Scroll saw blades are usually sold by the dozen or the gross and cost anywhere from around $2.00 to $6.00 per dozen, depending on the quality and type.

They do break especially when you are new to scrolling. However as you become more familiar with the blade, the scroll saw, and the wood, you will eventually break less of them.

Blades wear out so even if you don’t break them you will eventually have to change them. That being said, if you take it slow and let the blade do the work for you, you can do many cuts on a single blade. I have done several projects such as a cross or ornament with a single blade and then the next blade breaks within just a few minutes.

Mineral Spirits

After cutting the project out, assuming that you have used spray adhesive, you will want to clean it off. If you try to peel it off by scraping it with your fingers, you will get frustrated very quickly.

I have found that a 30-second dip in mineral spirits is usually enough to loosen the glue and then it will usually peel right off. Sometimes a second dip may be necessary. When the pattern is removed, I then take an old toothbrush to lightly scrub off any residual glue and then let it dry.
(NOTE: Do not use your wife’s toothbrush)

Finish

Finishing is another subject that many books have been written on. There are countless ways to finish your project. The first thing I do after sanding is to rinse it in mineral spirits. I then let it dry and most of the time use polyurethane to finish the project.

Other Tools

Other tools are always helpful when learning how to start scroll sawing. Below is a list of some of the tools that I use daily with my scroll saw projects:
Miter saw
Table saw
Orbital sander
Band saw
Scissors – To cut the pattern out
Clamps – There is a saying that you never have enough clamps. I believe that is true.
Files – A good set of needle files are helpful tools when sanding the project, particularly the internal cuts. You can find a set from a scroll saw supply store for around $10.00 to $15.00.
A good comfortable chair/stool – This is important because if it’s not comfortable, you won’t want to be at it for very long.
Dust mask – Dust can be harmful to your lungs.
Books – Scroll-sawing books are a good way to learn the hobby. One of the best books out there for beginners is the Scroll Saw Workbook, 3rd Edition.

Time to Start Scroll Sawing

11 Steps I Use for a Scroll Saw Project from Start to Finish.

1. Find or create a pattern of your choice.

2. Find a piece of stock for the project.

3. Sand the face of the stock. I usually sand it starting with 80 then 120, then 220, and then down to 320 grit if necessary.

4. Spray the back of the pattern with adhesive and attach it to the stock. Be aware of the grain direction as this may influence the appearance of the project. For instance, if I were scrolling a cross, I would prefer to have the grain running either up and down or diagonal in either direction. I do not like the grain horizontal on a cross. This would be your decision as the artist.

5. Cover all the cutting lines on the pattern with packing tape.

6. Drill all the internal holes.

7. Start scrolling away. This is the moment you’ve been waiting for so take your time and enjoy it. I usually start with the center holes and work my way out. Some projects may have delicate areas so keep this in mind when cutting. I recommend that you take a break every so often. If you start to wander off the lines too often, it may be time for a break. I seem to do better after a short break.

8. When the project is completed give it a 30-second soak in mineral spirits and peel the pattern off. If it doesn’t come off give it another 30-second soak. Repeat, as it will eventually just peel off. Once it is removed carefully use a toothbrush to scrub away any residual glue and rinse again.

9. Everyone’s favorite part – sanding, sanding, sanding. If you sanded the project before applying the pattern, then at this point you will just need to do touch-up sanding to get the “fuzzies” off. This should not take too long to do.

10. When the sanding is done, clean the project off with mineral spirits and then use an air compressor to blow it off. Be very careful. I have dropped finished projects at this point and it’s not very fun.

11. Finish your beautiful new project by applying your favorite finish. I like polyurethane the best; however, I have used Danish oil, boiled linseed oil, etc. Again this is up to you as you are the artist. I plan to have an article on the finishing process. Subscribe to our blog so you will be notified by email when a new article is posted.

Conclusion

I hope this will help someone whether you are new at scrolling or have been at it for years. I have learned a lot by using various websites, videos, and magazines and would like to share them so that it may help you out as well. Click here for a list of websites that have been very helpful for me over the years.

I hope this has been helpful and you have enjoyed your visit. Let us know if you have any questions in the comments section below.

I do plan to have some scroll saw reviews in the future on this site. If you have a particular brand of scroll saw that you would like to see a review for, let us know in the comments below.

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Thank You and Keep on Scrolling

Scroll Saw Blades FAQ