Improper tension and pushing too hard are the most common reasons why scroll saw blades break. We also look at some other reasons and provide some tips to help overcome them.

One of the most frustrating things that can happen when learning to use the scroll saw is when you are sitting there scrolling along, trying to hold the line as close as possible, and then all of a sudden, BANG!!! Your scroll saw blade has just broken again.

It makes me jump every time a blade breaks no matter how many times it has happened in the past. Often I would think to myself, this was a brand new blade just three minutes ago.

What is going on? So I began to look for some answers to the question that I had, “What am I doing wrong and why do my scroll saw blades keep breaking?”

It was kind of a problem for me back when I started scroll sawing. I did a little research into it. I found ten of the most common reasons why scroll saw blades break and how to resolve them.

1. Improper Tension on the Blade

Improper scroll saw blade tension, whether too loose or too tight is probably the most common cause of blade breakage, yet it seems to be the most controversial.

After looking through many forums and scroll saw web sites, it seems the consensus is about 50/50 on which one is actually worse. The important thing is that improper tension in either direction will cause scroll saw blades to break.

If the tension on the blade is set properly, it will drastically reduce blade breakage.

To get the perfect tension after installation, I pluck the blade with my fingertip to get the “ting” sound I am looking for. I have heard that you want the sound of a high “C” note.

I am not a musician so I’m not exactly sure which note is in the video below; however, I know that this sound means it is perfectly tensioned for this particular saw and this blade (Pegas #3 Modified Geometry)

2. Pushing Too Hard or “Hogging”

Pushing or “hogging” the piece through the blade too fast and hard can cause the blade to twist and bow, then eventually break.

This happens very quickly with smaller blades. If you allow a larger blade to bow, it could take longer to break; however, in the process, it can cause the piece to have burn marks and the cut will be beveled.

The reason for this is that the wood is being forced into the blade faster than the sawdust can be removed. It will become hot due to the increased friction causing the wood to burn.

This heat, from the friction, will also cause the blade to rapidly become dull. In turn, it will produce even more friction, resulting in the blade becoming even weaker. Eventually, it will break under stress. This whole process happens fairly quickly.

I encountered this issue when I began scrolling. I was pushing hard enough to bow the blade, yet not hard enough to break it. This caused my cuts to have both a bevel and burning. It just looked terrible.

How Can I Prevent This?

Push the piece into the saw blade slowly, with gentle, forward pressure, and let the scroll saw do the work. If you see the blade bowing, ease up a little and allow the saw to cut.

If it feels like you are pushing hard, yet it’s not cutting, check to make sure the blade is installed properly. It could be upside down. Another indication of an upside-down blade is when the top of the project has “fuzzies” on it. Remember unless it’s a crown tooth or a two-way blade, the teeth need to point downward.

(“Fuzzies” is the scroll saw slang word for the splinters or tearouts left behind from cutting.)

If the blade is installed properly, and if you are not “hogging the wood” into the blade, and it is still not cutting, check to make sure the blade is the appropriate size and type for the thickness of the stock.

4. Too Much Side Pressure on the Blade

This is similar to the “hogging the wood” category; however, it is a little different so I think that it’s important enough to have its own section.

Sometimes a scroller will inadvertently push to one side or the other to try to stay on the line. This seems to happen more often when cutting on a curve. This can cause the blade to get hot and once it gets hot, it will become dull pretty quickly. Also, the blade will twist or bow causing it to break. It will create a bevel or burn to your project as well.

With my scroll saw, I have a tendency to push more to the left.

How Can I Prevent This?

Make sure the blade is tensioned properly, then gently feed the wood into the blade by applying pressure from the front of the wood. Let the saw do the work.

6. Blade Alignment

Make sure that the upper blade holder is directly above the lower one and that they are holding the blade straight. A good indication that this may be the culprit, is when the blade breaks near the top or the bottom of the blade holder.

7. Dirty or Defective Blade Holder Clamps

The blade holder clamp could become loose. This will cause the blade to slip, releasing the tension and causing the blade to break. It could be dirty from sawdust or residual oil left on the blade from the manufacturer and needs to be cleaned. You may also need to replace the blade holder screws or even the entire blade holder clamp.

On my Craftsman saw, I had to file down the end of the set screw for the blade holder because it started to develop a groove at the point where it held the blade. This groove caused it to have less contact with the blade; resulting in it slipping out of the blade holder.

A defective scroll saw may have a similar issue where the blade holders do not hold properly. This will cause the blade to lose tension which in turn, causes the blade to break. If this occurs, perhaps it may be time to consider a new scroll saw.

8. Breaking When Making Tight Turns

Making sudden, tight turns without pivoting can cause the blade to twist and bind and then break. When this happens, the break usually occurs in the middle of the blade.

How Can I Prevent This?

When attempting to make a tight turn, ease up at the point of making the turn and try to pivot the material on the back of the blade. Gently turn while applying forward pressure on the material through the blade. This should be in one continuous movement.

9. Corrosion

Scroll saw blades are vulnerable to rust and corrosion. Particularly if you live in a humid climate or if your shop is in an old basement like mine. You can help protect them by applying a thin coat of oil or WD-40 on them. Also, store them in a protective container like a blade holder tube.

10. Worn Out Blade

After using a blade for a while, it does wear out. When a blade becomes dull, it will create more friction, heat up, and then break due to stress. This will also cause burn marks on the wood.

If it seems like the blade is cutting slower than normal or if you notice “fuzzies” on the bottom of the project, it may be time to retire the blade.

Another indication of a dull blade is that it may start to become louder.

To resolve this issue simply replace the blade with a new one and move on. A new sharp blade will also help reduce the wear and tear on the scrollsaw motor as well.

Click here for a list of scroll saw blade manufacturers and retailers.

A saw blade lubricant can help prolong the life of the blade and help produce a smoother cut. It is a lubricant specially made for scroll sawing that helps keep the blade from clogging. I use the Olson saw blade lubricant available at Walmart, Amazon, International Tool, and at many other scroll saw supply stores.

I have read however that a regular white candle can be used as a blade lubricant as well.

Conclusion

There are several reasons why scroll saw blades break. The main reasons are improper tension, “hogging the wood” too fast, and pushing with too much side pressure. These reasons can usually be overcome by learning some techniques to reduce or eliminate them.

Other reasons why scroll saw blades break include: rust, defective blades, blade holder, or scroll saw. These usually mean having to order new parts, blades, or even a new saw.

You should be able to greatly reduce blade breakage in your scroll saw projects by ensuring that you align an appropriately sized, good-quality blade into the holder, by using proper tension, and by gently steering the wood into the front of the blade with light forward pressure.

I hope this has been helpful and you have enjoyed your visit. Let me know, in the comments section below, if you have any questions.

While you are here, check out some of our other pages for information on
Scroll Saw Patterns
Scroll Saw Blades
Tips and Tricks
Scroll Saw Websites

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Thank You and Keep on Scrolling